Published in Broadsheet
Perched near the corner of Smith and Gertrude Streets, the curiously named Birdman Eating serves up sleekness and eccentricity in equal parts. The Fitzroy cafe sits cosily on a downhill slope between neighbours Northside Records and Dr Follicles, offering trattoria style all-day dining with a slice of panache.
The cafe is the go-to place for a left-field breakfast with specials such as smoked pork liverwurst with sourdough alongside braised beans, ricotta hotcakes and other staples. But queues form on weekends for the signature baked eggs, doled out in metal skillets and dressed up in rotating accompaniments including chorizo, tomato and flaked trout.
Though the cherry and Kermit chairs and ‘birdmen’ suspended from the ceiling add colour to a lazy morning catch up, the cafe’s moody timber and banquettes easily translate for dinnertime tapas. Open late from Tuesday to Saturday, Birdman’s style, quirk and buzzy service draw a mixed but constant crowd.